Guddu de Karahi
After roughly a year and a half of business at Noriega and 22nd, Guddu de Karahi has shut down.
The news comes as a blow for Indian/Pakistani food lovers and longtime followers of chef Zulfiqar “Guddu” Haider, who made his name at the Tenderloin’s Lahore Karahi, which he sold in 2012.
His devotees rejoiced when Haider returned with the opening of Guddu de Karahi in late 2013. Though service could be dicey at best, the food at Guddu de Karahi rewarded diners, too, as pointed out by Janny Hu in her Chronicle review:
“The food? Excellent.
Haider’s calling card at Lahore Karahi was his tandoori fish ($13.99), chunks of sea bass coated in a deceptively potent mix of herbs and spices. Served on a sizzling platter that smokes a little too powerfully for the small restaurant, the fish packs a succulent punch – “mild” still has plenty of heat – and is far more interesting than its tandoori chicken counterpart ($4 for a leg, $4.50 for a breast).
The curries, though, are the real highlights. Beautifully textured with cilantro stems and thick strips of ginger, two of the best are vegetarian – aloo bengan ($7.50), featuring eggplant and potatoes; and bengan bhartha ($7.50), another eggplant dish with cream added to the mix.”
Thanks to a valued tipster for passing along that a north Indian place is rumored as a replacement; according to liquor licenses, the new restaurant DBA is Desi Cafe.
Meanwhile, word on the street is that Haider will be starting a catering business.
Guddu de Karahi: 1501 Noriega St. (at 22nd Avenue), San Francisco; (415) 759-9088, www.guddudekarahi.com
